Adaptations and Recreations – 50 Years of Costume Design for Television Drama A Study Day at the V&A

On the 10^th of September I attended the above titled event at the V&A. The day was split up into a series of talks/interviews given by various costume designers and makers. Who have worked on seminal productions; that Cosprop had provided most or all of the costumes for.

All the talks were very insightful on many levels, from how different designers work, to how changing needs in the industry have changed the way costumes are produced. Therefore today I am going to share some of my highlights from the day.

Cosprop is a costume house specialising in period authentic costume which can be hired for theatre, film and TV. The day was kick started with a talk given by Cosprop founder John Bright and Oscar/ Bafta winning designer Jenny Beaven who in the early years of Cosprop often co- designed with Bright on many of the Merchant Ivory films and they continue the partnership today. The talk was chaired and introduced by Theatre and Performance curator at the V&A Keith Lodwick.

Firstly Bright and Beaven talked about the process they used in their early films such as A Room with

a View and Howards End. In most cases designs weren’t produced; mood boards would be created to communicate their vision for the look of the whole film and then individual character boards would be produced for each character. When it came to producing the costumes Bright and Beaven explained how the industry expectations and methods of working were very different from today.

Bright explained how often in their earlier films original fabrics from say the Victorian period were used within costumes, an example was on display at the talk of Vanessa Redgrave’s Howards End costume using original Victorian velvet. Bright expressed how today this would not be possible because in most cases two or sometimes even three and four copies of a costume have to be made so period fabrics can’t be used. Furthermore the methods to create some fabrics aren’t permitted due to health and safety today. Therefore as Jenny Beaven said nowadays people have to buy modern fabrics that look period.

I was also lucky enough to find out what inspires these two wonderful visionaries and which is their favourite costumes that they have designed. Beaven said she differed from film to film with inspiration where as Bright often draws from John Singer Sargent and Giovanni Boldini paintings. Beaven’s favourite costume was perhaps slightly surprising choosing Immortan Joe from 2015’s Mad Max Fury Road as she said ‘it was so different from anything she normally does’ while Bright picked a dress from Merchant Ivory film The Golden Bowl.

Back of Elizabeths Dress, Pride and Prejudice

The second talk focussed on the costumes in Persuasion (1995) and Pride and Prejudice (1995) with designers Alexandra Byrne and Dinah Collin. They explained how the first stage was to prepare mood boards and how much of the historical research was done at Winchester, Bath and Whitworth costume museums. The also stressed the importance of researching and using the right underwear as part of a costume to create the right silhouette or construct.

A dress from each film was on display and they discussed some of the features of these garments.

These included now cord had been put into the armholes and back seam of Elizabeth’s muslin dress in Pride and Prejudice, because it was such a fine fabric. Illustrating how period costume has to sometimes be adapted to withstand modern filmmaking.

An interesting fact, the yellow jacket in Persuasion was in fact made of millinery velvet. You can see details of the costume below.

Details of Costume from Persuasion

One of the most useful and interesting facts I gleaned from this talk, was that often designers send colour swatches of all the fabrics used in the costumes to the post production department to ensure fabric colours aren’t distorted in the final edit.

After lunch the third talk digressed from the main focus on the day (Cosprop). This time looking at The Six Wives of Henry VIII (1970), designed by John Bloomfield. Where the previous talks showed what could be done with a fair amount of investment, Bloomfield discussed now he produced the costumes for the six part series on a tiny budget. He explained how a lot of the costumes were very rudimentary by today’s standards using old parts of jewellery glue gunned on card to make embellishments and using cheap upholstery fabric, it also evidenced how much technology has moved on since then and how these techniques just wouldn’t work today due to high definition TV.

The Dowager Countess Dress worn by Maggie Smith

The last talk focussed on the critically acclaimed period drama Downton Abbey looking at both the design and production of this seminal drama. The talk featured series 1 and 2 designer Susannah Buxton and series 3 designer Caroline McCall who was assistant designer on series 1 also. There were also three makers, Donna Simmons a Tailor, and Thais Demontrond and Caroline Green who were Women’s Makers.

They talked about a whole range of points from how different colour schemes were decided for each of the Crawley sisters (reds for Mary, greens for Edith and blues for Sybil) to the search for the right servants cap for the house maids in series 1. The aprons and dresses were actually modelled on originals from the Cosprop archive.

They also explained that because there was such a large amount of costumes needed for the series, many of the costumes were commissioned to be made by Cosprop. This also happened for special props that were needed such as the ‘family tiara’ worn by Lady Mary/ Edith, which was copied from a Cartier but made using less precious stones.

One particularly interesting anecdote explained how an original 1920’s dress that was damaged in the centre back and front was reassembled with the fronts used as sides and sides used as front and backs.

Detail from Dowager Countess Dress

The day ended with a brief presentation about the new John Bright Costume Collection Database which is being launched soon. Over the past year volunteers have been assisting in photographing and mounting costumes from John Bright’s collection of historical dress to be uploaded to an online research database. As the database will be up and running in the next few months I look forward to using it as part of my design research in my next term at university. The only disappointing thing was that I hadn’t heard about it sooner because I would have loved to have helped with the preparation!

Well that concludes my review of the Adaptations and Recreations study day at the V&A. It has defiantly left me with a lot to think about and take in as well as inspired me to keep following my dreams in the world of costume design. I’d like to leave you with this last quote said by Rosemarie Fernandez Day: “John Bright bought attention to real clothes” I don’t know about you but I defiantly agree. Its clear Cosprop and John Bright’s passion for authenticity has had fundamental influence on the way we all perceive period drama and will do for years to come.

 Images of Lady Cora's Dress from Downton Abbey

Seven Cultural Hotspot Highlights of East Sussex to Visit!

From the 9^th -19^th of September this year I went on a lovely holiday to East Sussex with my family. We visited some wonderful stately homes and several good museums. Therefore I thought I’d share with you some of my highlights from the trip that I recommend to visit if you’re passionate about history, art, fashion or design. 

One of the first places we visited was called Farley Farm; this was the home of the model and war photographer Lee Miller and her artist husband Roland Penrose. The house is uniquely decorated with Roland’s artwork and murals that he painted and many of Miller’s photographs are on display around the house and in the gallery / ticket area.  You are taken around the house on guided tour which was very insightful as you are able to learn about the stories behind many of the artefacts in the house.

Fire Place Harvest Mural

Personally I loved the interior design of the house particularly the fire place mural in the dining area, a surrealist interpretation of the harvest and symbols associated with it. The colours are warm and vibrant definitely a stand out piece.

Dresser at Farley Farm

Detail of Fireplace

As well as the house there is also a garden to walk around which features several abstract sculptures. It’s very picturesque on a lovely sunny day.

Farley farm is similar to another artist’s home in East Sussex, Charleston home of the Bloomsbury artists of the early 20th century. Although the art itself is completely different there is a common feeling of artistic liberation and content living. If you have been to Charleston then you should definitely visit Farley Farm and if you have been to Farley Farm definitely visit Charleston!

More details about Farley Farm can be found here: http://www.farleyfarmhouse.co.uk/

and Charleston can be Found here: http://www.charleston.org.uk/

The next place we visited was a National Trust property called Standen House; Standen is famous for its sumptuous Arts and Crafts interior. William Morris & Co lovers you will be in heaven! From the furniture to the carpets the walls to the upholstery all is rendered in rich romantic gothic patterns of greens, reds, blues and gold. It is simply gorgeous; the few snapshots below don’t do it justice in the slightest.  The property also has lovely grounds to walk around in.

The Living Room at Standen House

The other stand out home we visited was Chartwell in Kent and the home of wartime Prime Minister Winston Churchill unfortunately no photography is allowed in the house or studio so the only images I have to share are copies of some postcards I bought in the shop. It is a really interesting place showcasing a mixture of family, military and wartime history. The standout for me was the room showcasing all Churchill’s uniforms he wore for different engagements. From university dean to various military ones, as a costume student with a passion for millinery I was particularly taken with all the different hats.   However my favourite room was the dining area with the oval windows and elegant furniture it felt like something out of a period film, very stylish indeed.

The Dining room at Chartwell

There is also a small out building at Chartwell which is open to the public, this is Churchill’s Studio, he was an impressive artist and painted regularly. The walls are decorated floor to ceiling with his paintings and part of the room is set up like a work area. I loved the use of colour in his pictures.

Churchills studio

As well as National Trust properties I also visited several museums and galleries not least Bexhill Museum. Set back from the sea front and down from the landmark De la Warr Pavilion the Bexhill Museum houses an impressive collection of historical artefacts, period costume and motor history items. The Costume Gallery was the main attraction for me and I have to say I was very impressed. The gallery is arranged in a timeline going around the outside wall of the room. It tells the story of fashion history in relation to social history and clothing’s role in everyday life; with items ranging from the 1750’s up to the present day. In the centre of the gallery was a temporary exhibition of examining the changing face of the wedding dress. Antique dresses were displayed in cases ranging from Victorian up to the 1930’s and modern pieces, many on loan from their owners displayed on white plinths. As you will see from my photos there was a lot to see, some of which I feel will inspire my current costume work.

Another cultural highlight was the Brighton Museum; again this had an impressive costume collection and exhibition. There permanent collection tells the story of Brighton’s influence on designers who studied in the city as well as showcasing the range of street styles seen over the years. There temporary fashion exhibition was entitled ‘Fashion Cities Africa’ exploring the rise of fashion design in North African countries. The exhibition showcased unusual textures, bold electric uses of colour and hip silhouettes. It also introduced me to an area of fashion I had never really thought about before and now want to learn more about. The work was just so beautifully exotic, definitely worth a visit.  

There is also a large gallery in the museum that tells you all about the history of Brighton, a city with such an unusual vibe and known for its liberal attitude, its unsurprising it has a colourful history. I found this section really interesting, although I knew a bit about Brighton’s past. I defiantly learned a lot from the information and artefacts displayed. Worth a visit if you want to know more about Britain’s most bohemian city.

Another museum highlight was the performance gallery, displaying a collection of props, costumes

and masks communicating the history of carnivals and fancy dress there were some really unusual objects to be seen and all very theatrical.

As we were staying near to Hastings we also visited the Jerwood gallery, a modern art gallery it had on display an exhibition by mixed media artist Marcus Harvey, a collection of self -portraits by various artists and a one room exhibition entitled ‘The Boy who Bit Picasso’ this was by far the most interesting collection on display, not least because it related very well to our visit of Farley Farm. Picasso visited Farley Farm on a number of occasions and was friends with Miller and Penrose. 

The exhibition displayed many photographs taken by Miller of Picasso often with Miller/Penrose’s son Anthony (now owner of Farley Farm). The portraiture collection was also thought provoking, to see now different creatives view themselves.

One of the last places we went to was Scotney Castle, the castle itself is actually a ruin however there is also a stately house on the same sight. The house features striking architecture from the outside and elegant style on the inside and was home to the industrialist Hussey family. The old 14^th century castle ruin is set in stunningly picturesque grounds and is the perfect place for a relaxing walk.  

Well that concludes my cultural hotspot highlights of East Sussex if any of the places mentioned appeal to you check them out I assure you, you won’t be disappointed!

Lavish Sets, Awe Inspiring Automata and Startling Spectacles Is how I would describe Puy De Fou and Les Machines.

From Monday the 11^th of April – Thursday the 14^th I embarked on a college trip to France to visit historical theme park Puy De Fou in the Vendee region and Les Machines which can be found in the city of Nantes. We stayed at Puy De Fou for two nights and in Nantes for one with a day at Les Machines and exploring a bit of Nantes. This was only my second trip to France (I went to Paris last year) therefore the experience was very eye opening in multiple ways. Both places were very theatrical and have left me with much inspiration for the future therefore I thought I’d do a post to share some of the highlights of the trip.

Sea Horse Automata at Les Machines

Firstly I will discuss the experience that is Puy De Fou: a self -contained theme park in the countryside of the Vendee its main attraction is it’s ‘shows,’ these are short half an hour performances which tell stories of the history of France. You can watch so much, from Joan of Arc to the French Revolution, Birds of Prey to the Knights of the Round Table; every show is a spectacle to the eyes and ears featuring lavish sets, costumes and dramatic rousing music. As well as these spectacles there are immersive walk through tours/exhibitions focusing on various places, notably of the Battle of Verdun and a fairy-tale chateau. Throughout the park all the employees are dressed in period costume even the hotel and restaurant staff. We stayed in the Roman Gallo Villa but there are also options to stay in Viking huts or medieval tents.

All the shows dialogue is spoken in French which can make some of the plots hard to fathom, however even where this is the case you can just enjoy the visual spectacle (or hire translation headphones for five euros).

Spectacle is the key word at Puy De Fou, very show is incredible however there were some I was particularly impressed by which I will mention in more detail. Firstly there was the Le Dernier Panache or The Last Plume which told the story of the role of Nantes in the French Revolution and one man’s fight for liberty, the said man was later shot by rifle squad in the scene so probably didn’t realise this dream in his lifetime. This is Puy De Fou’s latest show; it opened this year and is clearly their most extravagant yet. The audience seats revolve and the stage features several doors which slide back to reveal different scenes of the show. These included the hull of a ship a ballroom and wrecked cathedral in the snow.

The Stage for The Last Plume

As someone who has always been fascinated by anything to do with the French Revolution I really enjoyed the show I thought the story was engaging and powerful even if some of the finer details were lost through the language barrier. The costumes were also well done, if a little historically inaccurate at times. For example the women in the ballroom were wearing polonaise skirts which didn’t come into fashion until the 1770’s onwards and this scene was meant to be in 1730. Furthermore a couple of them were a strong fuchsia pink in colour. Although this was probably done to provide contrast, a colour so vibrant would not have been worn at the time.  I intend to talk more about the costumes later as it was our primary reason for going to visit Puy de Fou and I generally  found them disappointing, many looked a bit like they had come out the fancy dress shop. Part of the reason for this was almost none of the costumes were broken down. They all looked to clean for the times they were portraying!

Another of the best shows was The Phantom Birds Dance or Le Bal des Oiseaux Fantomes. This featured many birds of prey flying over the crowd set to thundering music.  These great natural aviators sored over your head, at times only just skimming over the audience. I really enjoyed the music to this show and the finale where over thirty birds swirled through the sky. It was an incredible sight. We loved it so much we watched this show twice! The secretary bird was also pretty striking its unusual looks caught my eye.

The Secretary Bird

There was also a show about the invasion of the Vikings the action here was set across a small moat where a French village had been constructed. During the course of the show there were many aesthetic surprises. Longboats rose up from the water and stuntmen galloped over the set on horseback. The destruction caused by the northern invaders was displayed to full effect, complete with flaming plumes of fire. The costumes were better executed hear than at The Last Plume appearing slightly more authentic, however this could have been because they were further away. Some of the ladies dresses had bright colour combinations which lifted the otherwise quite dull tones of the set. In all I would say the Vikings is one of the most breathtaking, nail biting shows.

Vicking Fire, Longboats and Destruction

Another bombastic show was the Triumphs Sign or Le Signe du Triomphe which tells the story of the circus games. Set in a Roman coliseum the show featured lions, chariot racing and gladiator fighting. Be prepared to be transported to Roman France! The coliseum itself it a major talking point, it is quite surreal to sit in what is a very authentic looking building. It is a very impressive space.

Despite it being the bigger shows that attract the most attention I actually enjoyed a couple of the smaller ones more; The Secret of the Lance  or le Secret de la Lance tells the story of a Shepardess girl's encounter with Joan of Arc and learning to use a lance to protect the city walls. The show featured some amazing horse stunt men and an impressive set. The horses and knights livery were striking in bold colours and patterns. 

Colourful Knights Livery

I also really enjoyed the Knights of the Round Table show. Its set was so impressive; a castle was set across from a moat but part way through the scene a portion of the lake sinks down into the ground revealing the round table. Meanwhile the water is flowing into this inner chamber. It is so dramatic if a little hard to explain so please look at my photo it probably communicates this better. As I love the Arthurian legends I really loved this show it was definitely my favourite!

Knights of the Round Table

We also saw a show in the evening called Organs of Fire, set to classical music, water is spurted into the air creating patterns in violet neon light while dancers in light up costumes skated around the lake. The performance was dazzling, and awe inspiring in how tall the water could shoot into the sky, higher than the trees. It was also the first time I have heard an organ live which again was impressive. Having said this I did expect there to be more to the performance perhaps some fireworks or something. Once you got over the initial wow factor of the ‘water dancing’ I kept thinking this is nice is there going to be something else?  

When you aren’t watching a show there are several themed restaurants and eateries around the sight whether you just want a salad or baguette or a three course meal there is lots of choice. If its retail therapy you are looking for there is the 1900’s Belle Époque town which boasts some lovely art nouveau architecture and decoration. There are several gift shops selling toy catapults, kids dress up, jewellery, fans and parasols as well as tins of sweets.  In the medieval village you can find hand crafted gifts such as necklaces, earrings, charms and key rings to fur skins or wood carvings.  I indulged in a hand- made poppy necklace and some sweets.  

Love this Window  very Art Nouveau in the 1900 town

Now as I am a costume student I feel it is important to discuss the costumes seen at Puy de Fou; as I said before this was our primary reason for going and to be blunt I am not sure why this is. Many were very poorly made with cheap trims and fabrics; the general consensus of the group was they all looked like they had been bought from a fancy dress shop. They didn’t have a true sense of period like we see in this country. I think this is partially due to the lack of breaking down. The costumes were all to clean and new looking. Someone from the middle ages or Roman times isn’t going to have a pure white or unmarked costume. I can’t say I have learnt anything particularly about costume from going to Puy de Fou. It is an incredibly immersive place and magical at times; but I did feel it was a bit like what I imagine being on a cruise ship is like because it is all self -contained in one park but with historical themes. Would I go there on a holiday? I would have to answer no. But did I enjoy the trip? The answer would be yes. Have I learnt much from it or has it inspired me? I’m not sure maybe a little but certainly not a lot.

On the Wednesday we travelled to the city of Nantes and Les Machines. Les Machines is a company that designs and builds giant mechanical creatures. The two major attractions are The Carousel a three floor creation where visitors can walk around and ride on the level of their choice; and the Grand Elephant a giant moving automaton, visitors can pay for a half an hour ride where you can stand and look out from the Elephant’s back or sit in its belly and marvel at the engineering on display.

The Carousel at Les Machines

You can also visit the gallery which explains Les Machines most extravagant plans yet to build a ginormous tree complete with creatures including two flying pelicans. They also had a massive spider and aeroplane on display which they demonstrate their automation of periodically.  Included in the carousel price you can look over at the workshops where they build the creatures currently they are building a centaur.

I rode on the Elephant and went in and rode on the Carousel. I would say the carousel is more exciting than the Elephant as the elephant is quite slow and there isn’t much to see. You’re better off just looking at the elephant from the ground. The Carousel is an impressive site very theatrical and imaginative. It has a marine life theme of fishes, octopus, boats, submarines and many more. I chose to rid the sea horses on the top level(see first pic). This has a very steam punk look cast in quite earthy metallic colours. The automata are really unique and creative.

The Grand Elephant

I really enjoyed Les Machines, it was good value for money, to see the Gallery and ride the Elephant it only cost approx 8 euros and similar to see the workshops and ride on the Carousel. I took lots of photos of the different creatures as many had unusual features. I reckon it will be these shapes and forms that may inspire me in the future.it is such a unique creative place worth visiting if you are taking a holiday to Nantes.

Overall I would say Les Machines was perhaps more inspiring from a costume perspective however I did enjoy Puy De Fou. It was a whirlwind couple of days spent seeing some incredible stuff and making wonderful memories with great people. If nothing else it was exceedingly good fun and time well spent!!!

Explosive and Alluringly Beautiful – ‘Bedsit’ by Timorous Beasties at the PCA Gallery, Plymouth

‘Bedsit’ by textile Design Company Timorous Beasties is an explosive dynamic display of psychedelic acidic colours and daring patterns translated onto sumptuous home textiles.

The installation takes inspiration from bedsits as a starting point and this element of ‘gritty glamour’ is potent throughout the exhibition. From the wallcovering designs with their sporadic, multi-layered blending of patterns; evocative of peeling dirty, graffiti walls to the printed lampshades, their insides printed with scenes of London’s urban city.

The centrepiece of the exhibition is a velvet bed. The alluring tones of deep blue, acid green, strong pinks, oranges and white against the deep black is brilliantly dramatic and attention grabbing. The digitally printed board behind displaying another of Beasties kaleidoscopic designs I felt most obviously visually channels their grime and insect aesthetics.

Some of their pieces have a much softer, romantic feel, this was conveyed through their furniture assemble; it is clear Timorous Beasties channels influences from the ’toile de joy’ fabrics of 1800’s France but reinvents theme in bright, mystifying , zany colours.  I was particularly drawn to some of the chair designs, their bright seats contrasted strikingly with the dark frames. The seat designs themselves sported misty murky designs often blending lighter, airier shades, with darker, murkier tones then over prints them with a clear swirling baroque design in another dark hue. My favourite was magenta, rust and olive green combination. The darker green hues I feel particularly convey a sense of the dingy bedsits of their influence.

Timorous beasties logo sports a beetle bug within a circle and ‘T’ it is clear from the exhibition beetles and insects are a recurring source of inspiration, whether amalgamated into kaleidoscopic wallpaper designs or rendered in a botanical style on lampshades. Beetles, insects and lizards are found interwoven into designs throughout the exhibition. Timorous Beasties ability to create designs using similar influences in such differing styles makes the installation even more enticing and awe inspiring.

I was particularly inspired andenamoured by the velvet cushions displayed on the brown sofa behind the bed. Each design was so individual and the colours were brilliantly vivid, intense, and electric. The surrealist, trippy imagery drew you in, making you stop and pause in order to study each small detail of their complex prints. The kaleidoscopic blue and yellow deign reminded me somewhat of Alexander McQueen’s Platos Atlantis prints. However my favourite was the graffiti drips cushion. Its random, expressive pattern had a raw and passionate, dirty, smoky quality. This I feel sums up timorous beasties work as a whole; it is not pretty but it is alluring, slightly sinister and definitely dramatic and beautiful.

The installation was huge pleasure to be able to see and learn about as their designs will definitely inspire me in the future.