Spread across two floors Bristol Costume Services
houses an array of costumes from the medieval to the modern day for men and
women. Period costume from ancient to the 19th century is on the
first floor and 20th century costume is on the second floor along
with ‘light entertainment’ costume such as those used for pantomime, burlesque
etc.
It is a vast place so as you can imagine I only
saw a tiny snap shot of what they have in the two hours I was there. I mainly
used the trip (with my university course) as a chance to research costumes that
related to my latest project, a 1980’s outfit with an 18th century
twist, in the jacket style . Therefore I firstly looked for 1980’s suit jackets
and late 18th century caraco bodices. I was able to find several
jackets and three bodices.
Starting with the 18th century
bodices I examined the practical features of the garments, to gain a better
understanding of the standard of production used in theatre costume making. The
combinations of fastenings used in the three different examples of bodice were
really insightful: one bodice was fastened with giant poppers as well as hook
and bar tape for extra security. Another had hook and bars sewn on individual
but alternated the sides the components were sewn on to. One wasn’t lined,
perhaps to make the costumes more washable. However one was lined and sweat
patches were sewn under the armholes to protect the silk fabric lining. The
third one was only half lined on the tail coat style draped panel. This was
probably because it was very full and long and may have shown on the underside.
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Hooks and Bars and Poppers |
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Hooks and pars are sewn on alternative sides each pair for a more secure fasten. |
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Sweat patches preserve the fine silk lining |
From a design perspective they were also
inspirational. My design incorporates a peplum that forms into two points. Each
of the three bodices had interesting examples of similar effects. One created a
sharp point at the centre back by adding an extra pointed panel; this folds in
when lying straight, by I reckon would splay out over a bum roll/full skirt.
The second created a short flared peplum using box pleats; this doesn’t create
any sort of point but would create a nice fit and flare line.
The third bodice was fitted with a stomacher front
panel which then flares out into a full almost tailcoat style shape at the back.
This is cut in panels to create the very full shape. It was a very heavy
garment because there was so much fabric in the back panel. The exaggerated,
oversized collar and panelling suggested to me it had been a comical costume,
also reflected in the fabric, and binding. The strong royal blue buttons and
binding infer it was for a confidant character, the colour combination’s
producing a bold striking design. I was also interested in the placement of the
stripe pattern: the front and back panels in particular I felt was cut in an
attractive way. However they didn’t match the stipes on the bodice/peplum waist
seam, which would have improved the costume.
I also needed to research 1980’s suit jackets so
also went up to the 2nd floor to look at their 80’s stock. The 2nd
floor I wouldn’t say is as ordered as the 1st. there is no lighting,
and it is difficult to see the costumes if you are in the centre of the room so
have to take everything over to the windows to see it properly. I mainly wanted
to look at 1980’s jackets to examine their construction, Such as the size of
shoulder pads and lining construction.
Whereas all the period stuff has clearly been
made, their 20th century stock is mostly vintage clothing from the various
periods. The jackets I looked at were vintage pieces from Jigsaw, Hobbs,
Jacques Vert to name a few. From examining several pieces I was able to identify
some key construction features: all have a 2 inch pleat in the centre back of
the lining for ease, and the thickness of shoulder pads vary from approximately
6cm – 3cm. I also found a really nice pencil skirt, part of a two piece suit;
it had a flattering waistband shape and placement of darts on the skirt back.
As well as finding costumes to inform my research
I also just looked around generally at the different stock. They have a vast
selection of unusual pieces. From exquisite examples of fabric manipulation as
seen on 18th century bodices and beautiful scalloped edged flouncy
sleeves. To illustrious ethnic and embroidered fabrics used in Tudor dresses,
capes and other exotic garments. I also came a across a rather unusual set of
headdresses including a massive fairy-tale castle, the Titanic and landmarks of
Europe they were very wacky and eclectic indeed.
Some other highlights included the breaking down
section which apparently includes some of the costumes used on the Pride and Prejudice and Zombies film and
had a selection of mainly period costumes, that had been in some cases near
destroyed; such as the bodice below which had been shredded and ripped within
an inch of its life.
It would have been interesting to know if these
pieces were once newly made costumes that had just become worn/damaged overtime
so were chosen to be broken down or were made to be used as broken down
costumes. The last highlight was a rather unusual medieval cape, which appeared
to have been made of incredibly thick and weighty canvas and then painted with
a design. If this could be done with slightly less heavy fabric, I feel it
could be a really unusual way of creating medieval costumes where fabrics are
difficult to source if you have a very specific motif that needed to be
created.
Facts and Figures
BCS charge £45 per week for a full costume (BCS
define a full costume as a dress, petticoat, cape, hat, shoes. However they did
say a dress and petticoat may also be considered a full costume in some
circumstances)
Consecutive weeks would be charged at £22 pounds.
They don’t charge per item but as a complete
outfit
They bought up Bristol Old Vic’s store and BBC
Wales store when they sold their stock.
Sometimes they will offer to produce costumes but
on condition that BCS keep the costumes for their stock.
I hope this gives you some idea of the wide
ranging selection in style Bristol Costume Services has to offer. If you are
looking to hire for a show I am sure you will find something to suit your
needs, there is a great selection and it is well made especially as much of
their stock has come from other wardrobe departments.